TwinTurbo.NET: Nissan 300ZX forum - It doesn't cost $1200+ to replace a fan/shroud setup
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Subject It doesn't cost $1200+ to replace a fan/shroud setup
     
Posted by Ash's Z on June 10, 2006 at 3:45 PM
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In Reply To IMO cracked manifolds do not equal blown motors >> posted by ztunerz on June 10, 2006 at 03:23 PM
     
Message either.

There is a gauge in the car that tells you if you are overheating. If one never looks at it, it is useless even in the event that there is a problem with the mechanical fan setup and the engine overheats and fails.


I'd be fine with that opinion IF you were consistent with it. You also state in your much touted 6 P , dyno disertation posts that its not a good idea to dyno a car over 200F. Why would you not dyno a car at 200 + if its ok to run the car that way. Why not dyno the car at the "usual" operating temp of 200 - 210 and get some real dyno numbers ? Why get artificial numbers by running the car at 180 F (quote from your dyno desertation).

Would it make you happier if I were to say to allow the temperature to be higher than 200 when dynoing? Like, say, 210 or whatever - just to make it consistent?

I recommend no higher than 200F in the dyno dissertation for reasons completely off from this discussion. That suggestion is made simply because that's the way I do it. If the engine exceeds 200F in a dyno pull, let it cool down before you make another pull, else it will tend to skew the results a little because of heatsoak. You are pulling information from a compeltely different topic and trying to apply it here, and it doesn't have any relevance.

Your problem with a lack of consistency hasn't been your problem from the get go. Keep digging.. you might find something though.

BTW, yes, it is OK to rely on the stock temp gauge unless you feel that there is something wrong with it. In the hundreds of Z's that have been through my hands, I have found NO supporting evidence that the OEM temp gauge is inconsistent or problematic.



. Its ok if you run 220 F and 230 f temps cause the Z was designed to handle that from the factory.

Is this a question or are you putting words in my mouth? If my car were running at 220+F, I would stop, pull over, and find out what's wrong with it. You should know that at 217F the ECU goes into a fail safe fuel mode where it begins to dump additional fuel to try and preserve the engine - I am aware of this - not sure if you are, but I see this as a peak threshold. So long as it isn't breaching that temperature you dont have to worry about hurting anything.

Obviously you would want to see temperatures as close to about 180F in all cases, but that just isn't ever going to happen regardless of what fan setup you have. Cruising down the interstate with 90-degree temperatures outside, my car was running around 194F coolant temperature. I wouldn't expect that Roland's car is going to be much different from that and by the look of the gauge, it appears that it isn't. I know it isn't cooking at 210+ degrees.

I'm really set back by your approach to this. I get the feeling that it is more a matter of venting frustration of sorts rather than genuine interest in obtaining information or obtaining one of these setups.

*throws in towel*




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